Vodka, soup and good cheer

What has become, you wonder, of the streak of madness that inspired the Polish cavalry to take on German tank regiments with sabres drawn? It's on the shelves behind the bar, in the extensive collection of moody and esoteric vodkas, which are for sale both by the shot and by the carafe.

Like the spirits, W?dka is a restaurant that lies in wait for you.

It's calm and bare, and the food is better than you might expect - well cooked and thoughtfully seasoned.

There's a daily lunch menu that represents extremely good value, a large proportion of the dishes being refugees from the evening à la carte.

Otherwise, the soup makes a good starter: barszcz is a rich, beetrooty affair and comes with little sauerkraut and mushroom parcels called pasztecik.

Blinis are also the business: they come with smoked salmon, aubergine mousse, or 40g of Oscietra caviar.

Choosing a selection will get you all except the caviar.

Also good is the kaszanka - grilled black pudding with pickled red cabbage and pear purée.

For a main course, the fishcakes with creamed leeks is a firm favourite with the regulars.

In line with the Polish love of wild game, when partridge is available it is roasted and served with a splendid mash of root vegetables; wild boar is served with roast baby beetroot and red wine shallots; or there may be braised rabbit with mustard sauce, spatzle dumplings and black cabbage.

Puddings tend to be of the oversweet, under-imaginative gateau variety.

Opt for the chocolate truffle cake, and your twelfth glass of vodka.

Wodka
St. Albans Grove, London, W8 5PN