Why I live on Old Kent Road: chef Eran Tibi on why his ‘naughty, authentic’ neighbourhood is London’s coolest

Israeli-born chef and Bala Baya owner Eran Tibi wasn’t sure about Southwark when he moved there six years ago. He tells Emma Magnus what changed his mind
Eran moved to Old Kent Road six years ago to be closer to his restaurant, Bala Baya
Daniel Lynch
Emma Magnus14 November 2022

I live on the infamous Old Kent Road — the brown street in Monopoly that nobody ever buys. I’m on the border of Bermondsey and Peckham, so I consider myself to be part of both neighbourhoods.

I’ve lived here since I opened Bala Baya six years ago. I was in Islington for seven years beforehand, but I moved here to be closer to work. When I moved from beautiful De Beauvoir — the dream — I was upset about moving to Southwark, not knowing that I was actually stepping into the new coolest area of London. It’s a complex, happening borough — super cultural with amazing diversity of people. I can’t recommend it enough.

Eating and drinking

The Victoria Inn on Choumert Road in Peckham is the best pub in London. It’s my go-to as a date night with my partner. They remember our names because we go there so much. It’s personal and they cook the best steak.

For some home Middle Eastern flavours, there is Peckham Bazaar on Consort Road, my absolute favourite. It’s an authentic, modern take on Balkan and Turkish food. The chef is unbelievable.

The Victoria Inn and The Begging Bowl
Daniel Lynch

Our favourite Thai is The Begging Bowl on Bellenden Road but good luck getting a table. Sometimes I book for 10.30 at night because it’s the only one available.

Kudu on Queen’s Road, run by a phenomenal husband and wife duo, is a must as well.

Where I work out

I’m a gay man in London — I have to exercise. I used to go to Fitness4Less gym on Great Suffolk Street. It was cheap and cheerful, and it’s massive. Once I saw Tom Daley training there.

During the pandemic, I got used to working out at home and in the park. I live next to the beautiful Burgess Park, which has corners with exercise machines. Exercising outdoors brings the animal out of you. It’s good for the soul and for the brain.

To be with nature

Burgess Park is great. There’s loads for families — a skateboard and BMX area, and tennis courts. For a stroll with my hubby, I prefer Telegraph Hill.

Eran in Burgess Park, where he likes to work out on a sunny day
Daniel Lynch

Dulwich Woods is a beautiful park for foraging a little further afield. We love mushroom picking but I was shocked — there are so many species there, in the heart of the city. In warmer seasons, you can find herbs, wild garlic and nettles.

Grocery shopping

I like to plan my shopping. I own a restaurant so I have the luxury of using my suppliers. There’s Borough Market, which is amazing but expensive. Maltby Street Market is excellent. It has more artisan bakeries and wine shops, and on weekends, the food stalls are amazing.

Maltby Street Market
Daniel Lynch

For a culture fix

This wider area is booming. Just walking around Peckham’s streets, there’s culture. I’m a big lover of graffiti — it’s so local and raw.

Every time we’re at South Bank, we’ll walk through the Tate Modern. It’s free, and I think it’s one of the most amazing art museums in the world. The BFI is also there and the Imax if you want a cinema in Waterloo. With local theatres, the smaller they are, the better. The Union Theatre on Union Street is a tiny theatre. There’s the Young Vic, and obviously The Old Vic both nearby.

Getting around

We’re very good with buses here — not as much with train stations. Bermondsey Underground station is a 15-minute walk. There’s also Elephant & Castle and Peckham Rye on the Overground. But in the area, I rarely touch public transport. I walk, cycle and skate — as a teenager, I used to skate professionally.

Dream street

One side of me dreams of a period house on one of the streets around Peckham Rye, like Chadwick Road or Lyndhurst Grove. They’re beautiful, quiet streets.

Street art on the corner of Choumert and Bellenden Roads
Daniel Lynch

On the other hand, I’d like to be by the water — a riverside pad is the dream. There’s a place in Bermondsey called Hidden Beach, a beach on the side of the Thames when it’s low tide. There are quays and homes — it’s beautiful.

Something you only see by Old Kent Road

Southwark has a dark past — it used to be the naughty side of London with all the old industrial factories and criminals and murderers. Obviously that’s gone now. But art has taken the place of darkness: a big factory becomes an exhibition centre; Damien Hirst has his main gallery not far from here in a converted warehouse. It’s loud and raw.

The former Bermondsey Town Hall
Daniel Lynch

What’s the catch?

The area is under constant construction. Elephant Park is nearing completion, thank God. There’s massive development around Old Kent Road and Burgess Park again because of the proposed Bakerloo Line extension. If you invest now, you’ll have a fortune in the future.

In three words

Naughty. Raw. Authentic.

Eran Tibi is opening Kapara , a restaurant with a “Tel Aviv, hedonistic, bohemian vibe” in Soho in February 2023.

Schools

There are five primary schools rated as outstanding, including Surrey Square Primary School, Phoenix Primary and Angel Oak Academy. There are a further 19 primaries rated as good.

Harris Academy Bermondsey, Spa School, St Saviour’s and St Olave’s Church of England School are among the area’s outstanding secondaries.

What it costs

Buying near Old Kent Road

Average flat price: £371,040

Average house price: £669,720

Renting near Old Kent Road

Average flat rent, pcm: £1,960

Average house rent, pcm: £3,020

Source: Hamptons & Land Registry

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