Agi and Sam come out of Africa for closing day of menswear showcase

 
Alex Lentati
8 January 2014

One of the world's most exciting young design duos opened the the final morning of London's 3 day menswear showcase with an exploration into African culture.

Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton, collectively known as Agi and Sam, enlisted a live tribal drum band to open their hotly tipped autumn/winter showcase.

The sounds served as a fitting preface to a collection in which the designers sought to marry key aspects of Masai territory culture with contemporary aspects of British menswear.

Alex Lentati

Western dressing codes including parkas and the classic suit were given an African overhaul through layering inspired by classic tribal workwear and moulded felt hats, created for their designers by millinery label Yashkathor.

A black and white check print, inspired by typically Masai check, was used on heavy duty overcoats and precisely tailored trousers to successfully continue this idea of two opposing cultures. But it was on a series of sleeveless leather tops printed with the the duos take on the logos of African oil conglomerates that the designer need to emphasis the juxtaposition between the poverty of Africa and western culture was really hammered home.

This collection wasn't just about politics though. There were plenty of great clothes to inspire too.

Since forming their label in 2012 after meeting whilst working at Alexander McQueen, Agi and Sam have gained huge praise - and a British Fashion Award- from menswear experts who appreciate their ability to fuse clever, carefully planned collections with a shrewd commercial awareness. This latest offering serves as no exception.

Mdumulla's skill as a tailor means youthful menswear shoppers can look forward to pin-sharp ankle-length trousers and jackets which ooze with attitude next season while fans of bold, sports-inspired look will delight in Cotton's ability to create prints that are brave without ever seeming too exaggerated or harsh.

On the final day of London Collections: Men with Burberry and Tom Ford also on the bill, Agi and Sam serve as a breath of fresh air.

The British menswear boom is not solely down to sales gained by major fashion houses and Saville Row institutions but also to the growing success of labels like theirs- it is them that force British men to think - and dress - outside of the box.

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