Antonio Berardi injects collection of extreme glamour with accessible daywear at London Fashion Week

Berardi kicked off London Fashion Week's unofficially titled 'Mega Monday'
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Karen Dacre20 February 2017

A collection of sweeping embroidered lace gowns and high voltage power dressing kicked off London Fashion Week's unofficially titled 'Mega Monday' today as Antonio Berardi topped the bill on the most anticipated day of the schedule.

The Italian designer, who is revered for his exquisite tailoring and side-skimming cocktail gowns, preceded shows from British fashion heavyweights Erdem, Christopher Kane and Burberry whose shows serve as a draw to influential style players from across the globe.

Keen to capitalise on his plum spot on the schedule, Berardi injected the day with a hit of extreme glamour before guests had even had chance to finish their morning coffees.

This was a wake up call for fashion week's dressed down attendees with jewel encrusted cuffs and embroidered collars very much the order of the day.

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A pick and mix of shapes and silhouettes, Berardi appeared to have cast his net wide for reference points this season with everything from classic Hollywood glamour - cited in sweeping midnight blue velvet gowns - to the court of Henry the VIII on offer.

But if this was Berardi's homage to Hilary Mantel's Wolf Hall, the designer had recast it with a host of glamorous Italian socialites with billowing chiffon and sheer silk replacing the restricted bodices of the 16th century.

While eveningwear has long been the designer's USP, he looked to invite daywear in today calling on ribbed knitwear with oversized collars and flannel parkas to add a new level of accessibility to his offering.

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The designer, who is a favourite among metropolitan working women, also looked to redefine his signature trouser suit. Accordingly, straight-cut pants with fold over waistbands were unveiled alongside peplum trimmed jackets in checker print brocade. Another ivory gown, cut to appear as if it was a full length skirt suit, served as living proof of Berardi's gift as a tailor.

Following a weekend of shows in which London's most accomplished and exciting designers have proven themselves to be a dynamic generation able to deliver on both creative and commercial levels, Berardi's show was a reminder that London Fashion Week's richness is entirely dependent on its ability to offer variety.

While buyers may find much to marvel at in the energetic and off-the-wall collections emerging from the design studios of the event's rising stars - among them A.V Robertson who won praise for her latest collection yesterday - it is the seasoned designers such as Antonio Berardi and Roland Mouret that are the event's backbone.

This evening Burberry will cement the capital's position as a global fashion innovator when its debuts its sophomore "see now buy now" collection. The show which is to be live streamed on social platforms across the globe will be instantly shoppable meaning customers can get their hands on the collection almost immediately after it is unveiled.

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