Lady bits: the relationship between fashion and feminism

Got the T-shirt? This is what a feminist accessory really looks like on you

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Star support: Benedict Cumberbatch wears his “This is what a feminist looks like” T-shirt for Elle, while Edie Campbell heads down the Chanel catwalk at Paris Fashion Week with a Ladies First clutch bag
Rosamund Urwin29 October 2014

Feminism and fashion have a troubled relationship. If they were a couple, they’d be the kind whose friends have a secret sweepstake on when they’ll break up; the type who bicker about chores, row in public and are locked in a long-standing war of psychological attrition. Feminism would complain about fashion’s predilection for wafer-thin girls and his fetishisation of crippling heels; fashion would reply that he employs a lot of women and, hey, isn’t it all just escapist fun?

At Paris Fashion Week, Karl Lagerfeld tried to revive the pair’s relationship. The designer — a man who once said Pippa Middleton “should only show her back” (Simone de Beauvoir in a skinny tie he is not) — sent models down the Chanel catwalk waving placards with slogans such as “History is her story” and “Boys should get pregnant too!”

Unsurprisingly, Greenham Couture (the models wore Seventies-style trouser suits) was met with a slow clap by some feminists, who resented the women’s rights movement being co-opted to sell £3,000 miniature handbags.

Grow a pair: zazzle.co.uk sells the feminist badges for just £1.90

You certainly don’t need to blow three month’s rent: zazzle.co.uk sells feminist badges for just £1.90. Meanwhile, the Fawcett Society, which campaigns for equality between the sexes, has long made T-shirts with the slogan “This is what a feminist looks like”. The idea is to show pride in the movement — “reclaiming the f-word from those who try to stigmatise it”.

It’s not so much about an individual wearer challenging the perception of what a feminist is, so much as the power of many women (and men) of all ages and backgrounds donning the shirt. Tracey Emin has worn it, as have Patrick Stewart and Bill Bailey.

Now, these T-shirts have had a makeover thanks to Whistles and Elle magazine (all profits still go to Fawcett, though). The new range — with spikier writing — includes a cornflower long-sleeved sweatshirt, a clutch bag and a mobile phone cover. The collection goes on sale tomorrow.

The power of the f-word is such that it’s already sparked a (mini) political row. Deputy PM Nick Clegg donned the T-shirt, as did Labour leader Ed Miliband — but David “only five women in the Cabinet” Cameron refused. Five times.

Still, Elle did persuade other famous men to pose in the Tee, including Benedict Cumberbatch, the thinking woman’s David Beckham.

I’m making the call now: Sherlock Gone Greer is the new feminist Ryan Gosling. I’m ordering my T-shirt now.

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