London Fashion Week: Mary Katrantzou puts on display of elegant chaos inspired by cosmology

The designer played to her strengths with a collection that was unashamedly complicated
Karen Dacre23 September 2015

London Fashion Week fell into elegant chaos last night as one of the capital's brightest design stars presented her vision for next spring.

Inspired by cosmology and the order of things, Katrantzou presented voluminous shapes with pared back tailoring alongside a series of dresses which were among the most creatively invigorating unveiled at fashion week thus far.

Katrantzou, a woman who stands at polar opposites with the fashion world's preoccupation with all things minimal, plays to her strengths next season with a collection that is unashamedly complicated.

Mary Katrantzou at London Fashion Week

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A smorgasbord of times, ideas and cultures, the Greek designer's latest offering saw everything from Balkan national dress to embroidery inspired by medieval engraving collide on thigh skimming cocktail dresses.

While complex in theory, this was a collection which sang with modernity as matelasse patterns combined with embroidery and sequins to create something which felt entirely fresh.

The designer, who has a canny knack for inspiring silhouettes, also relied on panels of lace and conical shapes to ensure that the sense of entanglement of various themes remained apparent throughout.

There was also a sense of femininity at work as Katrantzou veered from her usual sharp cornered shapes towards a softer silhouette, conjured through the inclusion of transparent silks.

Sensual and dreamy but with a tough edge, the collection looked certain to delight Katrantzou's devout fans.

Jeff Moore

Among the most hotly tipped names on London's schedule, Katrantzou counts 'it' girls and the die hard fashion crowd among her biggest fans.

Drawn to the designer for her ability to create ready to wear pieces that serve as wearable works of art, Katrantzou's woman is one that revels in the complexity of high fashion.

One mesh panelled gown, trimmed with choir boy ruffles and a low key belt fastening looks certain to thrill on the red-carpet next season while tailored trousers, worn layered under delicately embellished tabards, will be welcomed by those who look to Katrantzou for her astute attention to detail.

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