Louis Vuitton's latest menswear showcase in the French capital is a celebration of all things Paris

Backstage, Kim Jones revealed he had wanted to capture the "the elegant, refined chic of Paris"
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Simon Chilvers26 January 2016

Felted berets, a monogrammed vanity case, the words Volez Voguez Voyagez in a ribbon print on a languid silk shirt and a colour palette featuring a shade dubbed "powdery Tuileries laurel."

Welcome to the autumn/winter 2016 Louis Vuitton menswear collection, a celebration of all things Paris, designed by Men's Artistic Director Kim Jones, whose starting point was a Jacques-Henri Lartigue image of Vuitton trunks shadowed by the Eiffel Tower.

Shown in the French capital during the latest round of men’s shows, a billowing art installation by Shinji Ohmaki hung above the runway while the front row was packed to the rafters with the likes of actor Joel Edgerton, director Xavier Dolan and artist Jake Chapman.

This was a precise collection that journeyed into the Vuitton archive without ever looking anything but thoroughly modern - a knack Jones has harnessed throughout his tenure at the label.

The outerwear – some of it reversible – provided many of the highlights, which included a cashmere silk boucle double-breasted coat worn with a contrast shearling belt, elegant trenches that echoed the fluidity of Ohmaki's installation and a series of on-trend zip-up jackets.

Meanwhile a new grey-on-black monogram, known as the Eclipse, was introduced across bags and accessories including backpacks and cardholders.

Patrick Kovarik/AFP/Getty

Backstage Jones talked about how he had wanted to capture the "the elegant, refined chic of Paris." He also made reference to the recent terrorist attacks. "Then that awful thing happened, and well, we wanted to celebrate it [Paris] even more."

The designer was also enthusiastic about the new and energetic youth culture bubbling in Paris and being spearheaded by new labels, like Vetements.

Michael Clark and Alexis Von Rosenberg, the Baron de Redé were also name checked by Jones. The latter he said was particularly inspiring for the jewellery collaboration that the designer had worked on with Jade Jagger - think silver and diamond earrings, necklaces with whistles or signet rings with embossed leather.

With jewellery having a definite moment during the autumn/winter men's shows, these beautifully crafted pieces look set to fly next season.

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