Miuccia Prada doesn't do trends. At least, she doesn't follow them: she has of course, pioneered more than a few in her time.
Yesterday, on the final day of Paris Fashion Week, the Italian designer remained true to her word.
Unveiling the latest autumn/winter collection for Miu Miu - Prada's cooler, slightly more affordable younger sibling - Prada cast aside next season's infatuation for soft, sensual elegance as showcased by so many designers, including Louis Vuitton's Marc Jacobs and Lanvin's Alber Elbaz.
Her alternative? A collection of clothes purposefully designed for a woman who means business. Her heroine wasn't a purring sex kitten but an urbanite with a busy life - and a big wardrobe to fill. Or so Prada hoped.
The idea of city living ran throughout this show. Models walked on metal grates to the sound of rumbling storm clouds and April showers.
The clothes were universal. You can wear this collection in any metropolis in the world, suggested the designer to an audience that included Renée Zellweger and Mad Men's January Jones.
As if headed for a day in the office, models carried bowling bags in sumptuous navy and white leather. Another had an oversized rucksack in cream.
A series of belted polka dot coats were this collection's high point and came in shades of sugar pink, lemon yellow and powder blue. Many featured fur trimmed collars in opposing shades. But they weren't supposed to be pretty - at least not in a twee way.
Striped tights in clashing shades ensured that Prada's affection for fashion undercut with an awkward edge shone through. A series of witch-toe ankle boots with heavy duty tractor soles carried on with this theme.
Prada provided protection from the elements through a series of deconstructed coats and sleeveless jackets. Some came in quilted satin. Raincoats with large buttons and toggle details demonstrated her affection for breathable, technical fabrics.
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The result was al collection, that on the final day of a month long season of fashion shows, served as a breath of fresh air.
