Woolly wonders: training gear turns technical with new trend for knitted sportswear

Forget that chunky jumper nan sent you - knitted trainers, track pants and tops are the hottest thing around
A new sport collection from United Colors of Benetton
Rachael Sigee14 March 2016

Knitting has been on a transformative path of late. If it was an X Factor contestant, it would be telling us what a “rollercoaster journey” it has been on. It was old hat, then it was retro, then it was hipster and now it’s sporty and scientific.

At the Cycle Revolution exhibition at the Design Museum (until June 30) there is a knitted woollen cycling jersey on display that once belonged to five-time Tour de France winner Eddy Merckx. It’s a bit tatty and full of holes and is reminiscent of 1930s football tops, ie, to be paired with crotch-cradling short shorts.

But put that image out of your head, if you can. The new knitted activewear is super hi-tech, designed by collaborative teams of tech and textile experts to ensure that fitness clothing is as high-performance as the athletes it’s kitting out.

United Colors of Benetton has launched a limited-edition Seamless Merino sports collection made with all-natural fibres including 80 per cent merino wool yarns. It includes sweatshirts, leggings, vests, shorts and — somewhat ambitiously — a sports bra.

This is not your standard dodgy jumper that your nan sent you (and all of your siblings. And cousins. And pets). This is “technical knitwear”, and the terminology is no accident —it points to something more scientific than what you would get at your average knitting club.

Benetton reckons the new collection is robust enough for sport but also has a focus on comfort and minimal chafing. John Mollanger, Chief Product & Marketing Officer, says: “We are not a sports company but we know a thing or two about knitwear and natural yarns. On one side there are the special knitting techniques made for temperature management, and on the other, using a natural fibre. This is a new category of product for us but in the future we want to make clothing made for every occasion — casual, elegant or sports clothing to move in.”

For everyday “and more strenuous activity”, Nike’s new Tech Knit range (above) launched in January hot on the heels of its successful Flyknit trainers.

The collection has been designed to respond to the wearer’s environment and activity level, and in particular to handle fluctuating body temperatures, although it is primarily designed for pre- and post-workout wear rather than to fully replace your leggings and crop top.

A fabric of combined cotton and nylon is woven into a so-called “performance yarn”, and instead of the mesh inserts you usually find in sportswear for ventilation the material is simply layered differently based on heat mapping tested on real people to identify where heat builds up most. The knitting process means transitions between thicknesses are seamless.

Seamlessness is a real buzzword in the world of knitted activewear; wriggling around in itchy mohair is not what they’re going for.

Footwear company Allbirds (above) claims to have produced the “world’s most comfortable shoe” in its minimalist sneakers made from superfine New Zealand merino wool, which is then knitted at an Italian mill into a fabric specifically developed for footwear.

The fibres are 20 per cent of the diameter of a human hair so you have all the benefits of wool without scratchiness. They are also apparently totally fine to wear without socks, which may seem a bit of a risk to you, and those around you, but the fabric actually minimises odour and wicks away moisture.

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Like Tech Knit, it regulates the temperature of your tootsies and its sock-like design has minimal seams to avoid rubbing and pinching. As an added advantage it reportedly has a 60 per cent reduction in carbon footprint when compared to polyester.

All the brands developing knitted or wool-based sports ranges emphasise the advantages of natural fibres — being hypo-allergenic, lightweight and breathable.

The innovative repurposing of traditional knitting techniques is not just a cute nod to current trends; the technique allows products to create excellent flexible fit — as close to second skin as amateur athletes will get without a team of scientists developing the perfect bespoke, aerodynamic suit.

There is definitely an element of human touch about the designs: Nike Tech Knit is developed by yarn specialists, computer programmers and knitting machine technicians, and while the textile is woven by machine, the pieces are assembled and finished by hand. This is sportswear that ticks the technology boxes but still has some personality...and your nan’s “creative” designs are nowhere to be seen.

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