Food fad: Proper puddings

Pud heaven: a Jason Atherton dessert
10 April 2012

You have to hand it to Jason Atherton. Eighteen months ago when he was planning his new restaurant, Pollen Street Social, he got its designer to add a dessert bar.

How did he know desserts would be the new hot topic?

Cleverly the desserts cover the two current obsessions. There are moody, innovative puds - "baked beetroot sorbet, frozen yoghurt, basil ash meringue" - and familiar classics like traditional English rice pudding.

Soho stalwart Kettner's also put a spotlight on desserts when remodelling two years ago. The Pudding Bar showcases glamorous cakes and tarts for those in need of a serious sugar fix.

Increasing numbers of diners are opting for a main and pudding over starter and main. At The Jam Tree in W14, old-time puds are selling well: jam roly poly with custard or treacle tart with cream. At The Penny Black in SW10 there's interest in rice pudding with strawberry jam or classics with a twist like "Apple, rhubarb and English sparkling wine crumble with custard".

Indulge that sweet tooth - you know you want to.

Pollen Street Social, 8-10 Pollen St, W1 (020 7290 7600, pollenstreetsocial.com). Kettner's Pudding Bar, 29 Romilly St, W1 (020 7734 6112, kettners.com). The Jam Tree, 58 Milson Rd, W14 (020 7371 3999, ). The Penny Black Restaurant, 212 Fulham Rd, SW10 (0845 838 8998, thepennyblack.com)

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