Villa Marie St Barths review: Cool, tropical luxury on the Caribbean's chicest island

It's impossible to visit this stylish boutique hideaway and not relax, says Lucy Pavia
Lucy Pavia9 June 2019

Every now and then during my stay at Villa Marie I heard a faint rustle in the undergrowth behind my sun lounger and out emerged a little tortoise, making its way across the decking to nibble at a particularly delicious-looking leaf.

Putting down my book to watch it pottering around the edge of the kidney shaped pool like an elderly guest was the most strenuous thing I did during my entire three-day stay at Villa Marie. The pace of life at this luxurious boutique hotel, nestled in the hills of the Caribbean’s chicest island, is dictated by the pace of its little half-shell residents. It is impossible to visit and not slow down.

The lowdown

This ‘tropical chic boutique hotel’ can be found on the west side of the French Caribbean island of St Barths, a conveniently short drive from Gustavia airport (I say airport, it's teeny). In a past life it was a hotel called Francois Plantation and was revamped by Maisons & Hotels Sibuet under the very stylish eye of Jocelyne Sibuet.

Resembling an old colonial white clapboard villa, Villa Marie is spread across 21 bungalows, some built into the hillside with spectacular views of the sparkling Atlantic, others nestled in the lush, palm-fringed gardens which surround the pool and restaurant area.

The look is cool and eclectic. Entering through a covered wooden veranda, the main restaurant and reception area looks like the comfortable shuttered living room of an old colonial villa, with a traditional ceiling fan, caned furniture and mishmash of pieces picked up by Sibuet from her travels all over the world: stuffed birds, ceramics seashell lamps and fabulous prints. Everything is tied together by the hotel's signature egg yolk yellow accents on umbrellas, loungers and the tee-shirts worn by the friendly hotel staff.

The rooms

The cool eclectic feel continues in the rooms. We stayed in a Bungalow Jacuzzi, a short walk up the hill from reception (there are little golf buggies if you're feeling lazy), which was more like a mini villa, with a double height living area, decked veranda and Jacuzzi (as the name would suggest) along with spectacular views down to Flamands Bay. Taking advantage of the jet lag to sit out with a coffee as the sun came up was pretty magical - you’re unlikely to find a better view on the island.

Big sliding doors connecting the bathroom (with its claw foot tub and shell mirrors) living room and bedroom area make the Bungalow feel even more spacious, and the room buzzes with indigo blue Copacabana fabrics by French designer Lalie, oversized rattan lampshades and a bedside chests of drawers inlaid with shimmering mother of pearl. It's the sort of hotel room you wish you could shop.

Eating and drinking

Villa Marie has a sister restaurant in St Tropez and there’s the same Provençale rose-all-day feel to the eating and drinking here. The Chef Emmanuel Motte-helmed restaurant is one of the island’s destination dining spots and offers a menu of French classics with a Caribbean twist (case in point - the lobster flambeed with rum).

The breakfasts are also top notch, with a baskets of warm, miniature, freshly-baked croissants and pain au raisins brought over the moment you sit down and a healthy option of avocado on toast if you’re feeling virtuous.

If you’re not feeling virtuous the pool menu croque monsieur was the best I’ve ever eaten. For a pre-dinner aperitif or nightcap you can set yourself up in the Pineapple Lounge with a crisp glass of wine or novelty tropical cocktail (the pina coladas are recommended).

Things to do

The closest beach is Colombier, an untouched stretch of sand surrounded by nature reserve which can only be reached with a 30 minute hike down the hill through dense undergrowth. We went first thing, before it got too hot, and had the beach to ourselves. Cooling off after a hike in the water with some snorkelling gear borrowed from the hotel, we spotted a pair of wild sea turtles swimming below us.

The red-roofed capital of Gustavia is a good place to explore and snoop at all the super yachts moored in the little harbour, while Sunday at Nikki Beach is the party hub, worth it alone for the billionaire-watching. By 5pm everyone is dancing on the tables.

But if you’re feeling more tortoise-like you can retreat back to the Villa to relax with the little guys and a good book.

Rates start from £400 for a classic bungalow and from £1,000 per night for a villa, including airport transfers

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