Andreas Kronthaler talks marriage to Vivienne Westwood, Brexit and climate change

Geoff K. Cooper sits down with the designer at Paris Fashion Week
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Geoff K. Cooper2 October 2019

It's a cool Saturday evening in 18th arrondissement in Paris and I am meeting with Andreas Kronthaler in the quietest corner of the glaringly lit warehouse space where he just staged his show for Vivienne Westwood - his 8th since his name was added to the billing in 2016.

Formerly, solely, Vivienne Westwood, the brand is now called Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. Thirty minutes ago, the Dame herself, who has been married to Andreas for over 25 years, watched the show as a guest, and was swept up from the front row by Kronthaler to take a bow in front of the fashion throng.

Kronthaler is exuding a palpable 'joie de vivre' after a show opened and closed by supermodel Bella Hadid, with Baywatch star Pamela Anderson sitting front row and an array of bold looks - including a hat topped with a glittering fish - debuted on the runway.

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Born to an Austrian blacksmith, in Tyrol Austria, Andreas Kronthaler's entry into fashion happened in the '80s at art school while he was training to be a jewellery designer. Channelling that era is his latest collection 'Rock Me Amadeus' - named after the 1985 hit by Austrian musician, Falco.

In 1988 the Austrian designer met Vivienne Westwood at the Vienna School of Applied Arts where she was a professor. In 1989 he moved to London to work with her. In 1991 they designed their first joint collection, and in 1993 they got married. For 30 years, Kronthaler has been an enduring influence on the edgy sensation that now displays his name.

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Your runway has been used as a platform to communicate views on politics and world issues, especially climate change. How are you building on that in a year that has be so momentous for climate change in particular?

"You know she [Vivienne] is much more of an outspoken person. She is a real activist. I support things wherever I can with the work that we do. I try to be really careful and it's a lot of work because you are more limited. But then, sometimes limitation is a good thing, and out of these limitations comes solution. Like this time, for example, I have used a lot of fabric which already exists, which was already made. And there is only a certain amount, probably 100 meters. It's hard work as you aren't working with big quantities – you have to be very specific about how you use this limited resource, you can't operate freely, as you can't waste it. Most of these fabrics aren't dyed, printed or treated, and I've left them like this. Some of them I wash by hand to give them a bit of difference. I like washing anyway - it's one of my infatuations."

Why the infatuation with washing?

"Vivienne calls me something when I am always cleaning. She calls me OCD, apparently. But then she is the opposite - it is easy for somebody to critique what they are not and don't like doing!"

The collection is called 'Rock Me Amadeus', where did that come from?

"It was based on the film [Amadeus] really, and it was where we got inspired for the hair and the makeup, and that happened by coincidence a couple of months ago when I watched a DVD, which I never do. I watched Casanova and Amadeus and was very moved by the costumes. I thought 'Rock Me Amadeus' would fit the clothes."

Bella Hadid walking in the Vivienne Westwood/Andreas Kronthaler show during Paris Fashion week 2019
Courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

You also designed a bottle with Ciroc with the words 'Let it Rock!'

"There is this double meaning with CÎROC; we called the bottle "Let It Rock". So, 'Rock Me Amadeus', CÎROC, Let It Rock.' It's an amazing vodka really, I have tried too much of it already [laughs]. It has a very particular taste, and it smells very particular, as well. I designed the font and chose the colour red. I thought it would be really striking and stand out."

This year marks 30 years since you've met Vivienne. What's the secret to a happy relationship?

"Don't expect anything from your other side, from your partner, your wife or husband. Because then you're both free to be. You know, she taught me that. She never cared if I got pissed or went out. She wouldn't even ask; she was never interested in these things, control. It was total freedom. Maybe it was because she knew that I would come home and end up beside her. Perhaps I always just gave her this security, as well. You know, it's always a giving and taking, taking and giving."

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What are your thoughts on Brexit?
"We don't need borders, and that is what we are trying to create with [Brexit]. The air above us all is the same air; there are no borders in the air we breath. We are better off in friendship. It's all about friendship, and I think borders don't help friendship. I don't speak from an economic point of view because that's not my thing. We just don't need borders; we need friendship!"

Bella Hadid opened and closed the show

"I have wanted to meet and work with Bella for years since she started. She always wore clothes in a certain way. At first, she supported us, very much so wearing our looks - and I never had the chance to meet or work with her. We almost met one time, but this time it worked out so it was great. She is so sweet, a breathtaking creature and the last look, the gown, she was a like a big beautiful cloud."

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