The discerning drinker: Best wines from the Rhône
I'm having some pretty serious withdrawal symptoms, having spent last week in the Rhône lazing and tasting in brilliant sunshine amid the beautiful hilly landscape around Vaison-la-Romaine.
There's just fantastic warmth and generosity to so many of the mostly Grenache-based reds — and not just the terrific 2007 vintage. I'm heading back south at the next opportunity.
Château d'Acquéria 2006, Lirac rouge (Berry Bros, 3 St James Street, SW1 or bbr.com, £8.30).
The de Bez brothers are better known for their serious and meaty Tavel rosé (Berry Bros has the excellent 2009 for £11.02) but while I enjoyed that in the sunshine, their red Lirac, from grapes inside the neighbouring appellation, is equally delicious. Lovely richness with solid structure from a blend that's roughly half grenache and the rest syrah/mourvèdre.
Domaine Le Clos des Cazaux Réserve 2007, Vacqueyras (Jeroboams, reduced from £11.95 to £9.95 until Aug 29)
From one of my favourite Vacqueyras producers, this is packed with warm, spicy berry fruit yet with fine balance and tannins (majority grenache, it incorporates a fair slug of syrah). The Wine Society has its very good Cuvée St Roch Vacqueyras 2004, a similar blend (thewinesociety.com, £10.95). Tasting there last week, I particularly enjoyed Cazeaux's La Tour Sarrazine Gigondas 2007: utterly superb but not easy to find by the bottle here.
Promenade des Papes 2007, Plan de Dieu (Tesco, £9.99)
Plan de Dieu is one of the most southerly and recently created of the named Côtes-du-Rhône villages, just a few kilometres west of Vacqueyras. This is big, sweet and rich, but with attractive mineral notes too.
Château Montfaucon Cuvée Baron Louis 2005, Côtes du Rhône (Flint Wines, mail order only, flintwines.com or 020 7582 2210, £11.95; you can mix cases; delivery £10/case or pick up free from its Kennington offices)
This is astonishingly good for a straight Côtes du Rhône: rich, warm fruit and real depth balanced by freshness. One of a notably strong stable of Rhône wines offered by this small London merchant.
Domaine Grand Nicolet Vieilles Vignes 2007, Rasteau (Oddbins, £15.49)
Rasteau is among the best of the named Côtes du Rhône villages. This heavyweight — 15.5 per cent alcohol — is a little pricey but it's undeniably impressive: sweet, spicy fruit and huge depth.
