The top three: pigeon dishes

Rebecca Seal's quest for the best...
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Rebecca Seal10 May 2013

For trainspotters: Beagle

Tucked away under the arches by Hoxton station, you can feel the trains rumble overhead (Beagle is the name of an old steam locomotive). The team here has excellent pedigree, with stints at Rochelle Canteen and Hix behind them. The menu changes often, but look out for starters such as pigeon and prune terrine (£6.50)

397-400 Geffrye Street, E2 (020 7613 2967; beaglelondon.co.uk)

For pop-up fans: The Clove Club

Set up by some of the team behind the Ten Bells pop-up last year, this restaurant, with simple wooden tables and plain white walls, serves a brilliant set menu. In the similarly monastic bar you can order inventive snacks, including wood pigeon sausages with Ten Bells ketchup (£9).

Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old Street, EC1 (020 7729 6496; thecloveclub.com)

For glitz and glamour: Momo

Extravagantly decorated in carved wood and metal, and lush, brightly coloured fabrics, this restaurant is owned by the Parisian-Algerian restaurateur Mourad Mazouz and the food is mostly Moroccan. The pigeon pastilla (£9) is worth trying — the delicately spiced meat is almost sweet, and wrapped in rich, flaky pastry.

25 Heddon Street, W1 (020 7434 4040; momoresto.com)

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