If you’ve never been to Bali, flying for at least 17 hours for some spa treatments sounds far-fetched.
That is, until you actually do it — at which point it’s the best idea you ever had. A twin-centre trip based around two spa hotels? Even better.
Travellers are steering clear of Bali at the moment but although volcano Mount Agung is still on high alert, the exclusion zone is confined to 12km around the crater — and the vast majority of the island’s attractions are further away. With tourist numbers falling, many hotels are dropping their rates to encourage visits, so even as peak season approaches you can still get a deal.
Alila Seminyak, on the south-west coast of the island — far from Mount Agung and 30 minutes’ drive from Ngurah Rai International Airport — was my first stop.
Set in private grounds away from the rest of glitzy, tourist-heavy Seminyak, the building is a temple to tranquillity, with white terrazzo floors, whitewashed walls, beige hardwood seating and a crisscross of corridors and open hallways that allows refreshing sea breezes to blow throughout.
The only sounds come from the crashing waves — a reminder that it is wise to stick to the hotel pools rather than risk battling the strong undertows of the sea.
The main pool — above the gym — is designed for laps, while a smaller infinity pool on the beach, next to the remains of a temple, is a social hub, ice-cold Bintang beers from the bar being the order of the day.
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The food was outstanding and my ocean suite was every bit as comfortable as you’d expect. But the standout was the three-hour spa treatment: a massage combination of deep tissue, acupressure and lomi lomi kneading that soon had the stiff tectonic plates of my shoulder blades moving like well-oiled cogs; then a Lulur body polish, where I was rubbed down with a thick paste made from rice powder, turmeric, ginger and star anise, and buffed to a gleam; and finally, a facial using red clay, sandalwood and a mix of rose and lemon oils.
The next morning, at a session of Nauli Yoga I watched the teacher do acrobatics with her stomach, as she twirled it around effortlessly like a prehensile belly dancer. Apparently, it aids digestion.
I did venture out — to explore the 18th-century temple, Batu Ngaus, on a volcanic beach — then after three nights at Seminyak we transferred to Alila Villa Uluwatu on the Bukit Peninsula. High above the ocean, surrounded by frangipani trees, Uluwata has an architecturally modernist feel.
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The grounds resemble a tropical forest that has been tamed, with white walkways lined by shimmering grasses, lush foliage and black, coal-like lava rocks to help absorb the heat. Our villa was a secluded paradise, had its own pool and the only sounds were of birdsong.
Cocktails at sunset were served in an open-air pavilion, which appears to float off the edge of the cliff. This was followed by an 11-course dinner menu that encouraged us to “surrender to the unexpected”, as a succession of small dishes arrived, using tricksy cooking methods in the style of Heston Blumenthal: a beetroot sorbet, a carrot curry and an ice-cream “mushroom” surrounded by praline “moss” and dry ice.
The next morning we tried paddle-board yoga at the main pool with an instructor — try balancing on a board while trying to do the lotus position and maintain dignity, let alone glide into downward-facing dog.
Later, we ventured out to the temples of Pura Geger and Pura Gunung Payung, where we sat with boxes of blossom offerings, watching priests perform their ceremonies: praying, ringing little bells and scattering water over our heads. Anyone who has the good luck to visit the Alila resorts in Bali will come home feeling blessed.
Details: Bali
Scott Dunn offers three nights at Alila Seminyak, then four nights at Alila Villa Uluwatu from £2,700pp, B&B including flights and transfers.
