Cap Ferret: why you need to visit this chic fishing village on France's Atlantic coast near Bordeaux

For the latest in our Under the Radar Series, Kate Lough falls for the low-key charms of this chic French fishing village
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Kate Lough18 August 2016

Cap Ferret is not to be confused with Cap Ferrat. The latter is a glitzy slice of the French Riviera loved by the rich and famous, Beyonce-style.

Cap Ferret could not be further from that. Perched on a peninsula of France's wilder west coast, just 40km from the wine capital of Bordeaux, it's more like a Gallic version of North Cornwall or Nantucket.

It might be under the radar for us Brits, but it's one of France's best-kept secrets.

The lowdown:

Not far north of Biarritz, Cap Ferret is a spit of land that separates the calm of Arachon Bay on the eastern side from the crashing waves of the Atlantic on the west.

It’s the upmarket but low-key choice of chic Parisians, who flee to their unassuming villas in this unassuming fishing village during the grande vacances of summer. You might recognise it as the gorgeous setting for Little White Lies, starring Marion Cotillard - the actress has a house here, as does uber designer Philippe Starck.

As well as being very beautiful, Cap Ferret is the oyster capital of France. Oyster shacks line its main beach and shape rhythmn and character of the place.

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It’s charm also lies in its size; it’s small enough that you can walk or cycle everywhere, giving it the feeling of a secluded village.

In Cap Ferret, it's all about drifting around in Breton tops on a classic bike and quaffing your body weight in oysters and wine.

What is there to do:

As mentioned above, Cap Ferret is essentially a massive oyster bed, so days here can be spent making pitstops at the endless low-key restaurants for platter of huitres and Bordeaux white.

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Apart from eating and drinking, you can take a walk throught its pine-scented forests, or hire a bike and pedal up the headland or to the neighbouring, postcard-perfect village of L’Herbe.

Sportier types will be kept busy on the Atlantic side with surfing and kite surfing – the ocean's swells making for very decent waves. The calmer eastern side overlooking Arachon Bay is perfect for sunbathing and swimming.

From Cap Ferret, you can see across to the Dune du Pilat, the largest sand dune in Europe. Hopping on a ferry across the bay and climbing this is a must for any visitor – the views from the top are more than worth it. Another landmark is the lighthouse – you can climb to the top and get another stonking view of the peninsula.

Dune du Pilat 
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Where to stay:

Cap Ferret is largely made of private houses, many of which you can rent, but there are a few hotels too. Try the charming boutique hotel Maison du Bassin – housed in an old forest house close to the lighthouse, it has just 11 rooms. The restaurant is a popular dinner spot, too.

A room at La Maison du Bassin, a boutique hotel in Cap Ferret
La Maison du Bassin

For a touch of glamour, you can stay across the bay at the Philippe Starck-designed La Coorniche Hotel - or at least stop by for cocktails.

Where to eat and drink:

Book (and book you must) into Chez Hortense for dinner for the quintessential Cap Ferret experience. A favourite since it opened in 1938, it’s located near the Pointe du Cap Ferret and in the summer it opens up to the elements and spreads its tables outside. Huge piles of garlicky mussels and salty French fries are the order of the day here – expect big, comforting portions.

When it comes to lunch, just pick any of the endless oyster shack restaurant that line the main beach, each serving up platters of oysters and very reasonable glasses of wine in informal settings with great beach and sea views.

A typical oyster shack restaurant in Cap Ferret 
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If you’re renting your own house, the covered market in town is a treasure trove of fresh pastries and baguettes, incredible cheese and meats. Simple living at its best.

When to visit:

August is incredibly busy so try June, July or September during the summer. It can rain – think England not the Med when it comes to weather – but spring and autumn are lovely too.

You should visit here if:

You like a bit of understated chic, you love oysters and if you're anywhere near Bordeaux.

How to get there:

You can fly from London to Bordeaux in just 1hr 45 mins and then it's a 50 minute drive - it's the perfect distance for a long weekend break. Alternatively, you can take a train from Paris.

Follow Kate on Twitter @kate_lough and Instagram @kateloughtravel

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