Cary Arms Beach Huts, Devon - hotel review

These double decker huts are more Martha's Vineyard than Margate, says Jonathan Prynn
1/5

You forget how long a slog it can be on a Friday night down to the West Country. After five hot hours the journey to the Cary Arms had a sting in its tail — the narrow, single-carriage hairpins of Beach Road leading down to our final destination, just when the first G&T of the weekend was almost within grasp.

The white-knuckle ride, however, was worth it. The Cary Arms lies at the bottom of a hill in what must be one of the most splendid locations on the entire south coast. Brick-red Devonian sandstone cliffs sweep ever onwards, taking in the entire Jurassic coastline, until the vista fizzles out at Portland Bill in Dorset some 40 miles away. The curve of Babbacombe Bay creates a sheltered marine playground for a democratic fleet of pedalos, kayaks, jet-skis and gin palace yachts.

The hotel itself has been sitting here since an admiring Queen Victoria occupied the throne. But what is new are a row of six luxury double-decker “beach huts” tucked into the cliffs beside it. The huts — and the spa with small pool that is still being built behind them — are the personal project of South Carolina-born former luxury yacht designer Lana de Savary, wife of irrepressible veteran entrepreneur and hotelier Peter de Savary.

The stylish interior

Beach huts may have been part of the English seaside experience for more than 200 years but these are sophisticated super-sized versions that owe more to the traditions of Martha’s Vineyard than Margate. The clapboard white huts — actually not far off the size of small two-up two-down cottages — are chic, eclectic and thoughtfully designed, though perhaps a faux “virtual fire” that gives off no heat was a quirk too far.

But there is very much to admire. A Smeg fridge serves as a free minibar, including a jug of fresh milk. A large flatscreen TV, Sonos speakers and free wi-fi take care of all entertainment needs, while the generous bathrooms have walk-in showers and White Company toiletries. In a knowing Pavlovian nod to childhood memories, a stick of rock is left on the pillows at night rather than the usual chocolate.

The huge porthole in front of the upstairs bed is also a genius idea. You can wallow in the glory of one of Devon’s grandest views without the bother of getting up. For lazier guests — and that certainly included us —breakfast can be brought to your door in bleached wicker hampers filled with yoghurts, local Frobishers apple juice, croissants, pats of creamy Netherend Farm butter and strawberry jam.

A hut bedroom

A quirk of geography means the beach huts actually face north — great for taking in the vistas up the east Devon coast but limiting the amount of sunshine that can be soaked up on the deck. On the plus side they are remarkably sheltered.

The weather was warm enough to take dinner on the hotel terrace, where there is a reserved section for guests. Predictably for a hotel just 10 miles from one of England’s busiest fishing ports, local seafood is to the fore. Starters included pan-fried Brixham scallops and mains featured loin of Cornish hake and River Exe mussels. Lunch is a more crowded pubby affair, but crab sandwiches as good as those served at the Cary Arms beat any culinary flummery.

Spa-like bathroom

The area

The little pier in front of the hotel attracts local fisherman; it seems to be tradition that the smallest of the reeled-in fish are reserved for the tame — and rotund — local seal known as Sammy. He looked friendly enough to swim with, and I was thinking about it – until I was told a full grown seal could easily rip your arm off.

But even without Sammy as a companion, the swimming off the rocks — there is no beach as such — in front of the hotel is wonderful. Just be aware of the lines being cast by the fishermen.

The prospect of tackling Beach Road again meant that — for me at least — there was little temptation to get in the car to sightsee. But taxis are, by London standards, cheap, and many of the local area’s best spots can be seen by catching the Dartmouth Steam Railway from Paignton.

View up the coast

I would recommend buying a Round Robin ticket and using it to pop into the fascinating house and gardens at Greenway, family home of Agatha Christie. Then get back on the train and spend some time in Dartmouth — my favourite town in Britain — before returning to the hotel.

The Cary Arms’ remarkable location means it feels agreeably cut off from the travails of the real world. At the end of our stay, Beach Road, the M4 and London lay ahead. It is to the Cary Arms’ great credit that I sorely wished they would just go away.

Details

Cary Arms Beach Huts, Babbacombe Beach, South Devon, TQ1 3LX (01803 327 110; caryarms.co.uk). Beach huts are £375 per night, B&B.

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