Hidden Barbados: how to go off the beaten track on the Caribbean island

Beyond the beaches, the paradise island is full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered
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Barbados sets itself apart from other Caribbean islands not just in its location – it’s the easternmost country in the region – but in its proud inhabitants, hospitable nature and something-for-everyone scenery.

But of course I’m biased. As the grandchild of two islanders, having lived in Barbados myself for two years and spent my childhood summers there, I certainly share the characteristic national pride that sets Bajans apart.

You’d be forgiven for thinking that this Caribbean island is simply a fly and flop destination. Forget golden, the sand on Barbados’s beaches is a much more luxurious pink-tinged cream colour, with clear waters so vividly turquoise you’ll feel like you’re looking through an Instagram filter all of the time.

But there’s so much more to the island than just the picturesque South and West coasts. And those who venture off the resort grid will be amply rewarded. From secluded swimming spots to relics of the island’s colonial past, here are the best of Barbados’s lesser known attractions.

Inland

The best way to see Barbados is by hiring a car, which you can do when you land. Drive-A-Matic and Stoutes are the most popular rental services and share an office at the airport. Driving may be on the same side of the road, but unlike in the UK, almost all cars in Barbados are automatic, so be prepared if you’re used to manual. Bajans are known for sticking their arms out of their car windows to gesture to other drivers to overtake, they are also extremely horn happy and will beep to greet friends, to let you know you are being overtaken or to say thanks.

Those who can’t drive can get around the island by bus. There are three types: government buses which are blue, mini buses which are yellow and ZR buses which are white. All three can be hailed from any bus stop and fares start at around BD$2 (around 80p).

The interior of Barbados is hilly and alive with lush greenery and animals, there are interesting land forms in abundance - thanks to the many gullies (ditches that can span hundreds of metres and teem with life) that carve chunks out of the island’s coral rock - and intriguing architectural sites which range from the humble traditional chattel house, an often brightly-painted moveable wooden structure, to grander former plantation sites.

Those journeying beyond the main highways will encounter winding roads peppered with potholes, so speedy driving in Barbados generally isn’t advisable. However, travelling at a leisurely pace has its benefits, you’ll not only fit in well with the locals who tend to be a lot more gracious about giving way, but you’ll be safer and perfectly placed to take in the sights.

Look out for mongooses scampering across the road, the long tails of green monkeys descending from the trees and spectacular roadside plant life which ranges from six foot tall cacti to shady coconut palms.

Hunte’s Gardens

Aimee Grant Cumberbatch

Thanks to its abundant greenery, there are many parks and gardens on the island that are worth a visit, whether you’re a hardened horticulturalist or simply own a few pot plants. One of the most pleasant is Hunte’s Gardens. Situated in a sink-hole-created gully, visitors follow meandering walkways through the fronds and flowers while classical piano music plays in the background. The vast array of plants on show attracts animals both wild (look out for humming birds and Barbados lizards) and tame (owner Anthony Hunte’s rescue dog Flora is very friendly). There are several well-concealed places to stop and sit in amongst the greenery, so keep your eyes peeled. After visitors have had their fill of flora and fauna, they can enjoy a glass of ginger lemonade or cold beer looking out over the gardens.

Aimee Grant Cumberbatch

Or try: Orchid World - for those who can’t keep these troublesome houseplants alive, leave it to the professionals instead; Welchman Hall Gully - the floor of this intact rainforest is strewn with nutmeg in its natural state - laced with veins of vivid red mace - and monkeys peek out of the natural caves.

Earthworks

Aimee Grant Cumberbatch

As part of the island stands on clay, Barbados has a strong heritage of pottery making. There’s Chalky Mount, where visitors can watch local crafts people at work using natural material drawn from the soil, but the most iconic pottery has to be Earthworks. The intensely Caribbean colours of the glazes - sea blues and greens, sunshine yellows and coral pinks make these ideal souvenirs and gifts. But be warned, they offer everything from plates and mugs through to chattel-house shaped sugar pots and bespoke tiles, so be sure to save some spending money for a visit as you won’t want to leave empty handed.

The onsite café serves freshly baked cakes so be sure to stop by – on my most recent trip I sampled Bajan banana bread that was still warm from the oven. Delicious.

St Nicholas Abbey

Since it was taken over by its new owners, St Nicholas Abbey in St Peter has become one of the best-maintained former plantation houses on the island. It’s also one of only three Jacobean mansions in the Western Hemisphere, so is a must visit for keen historians and architecture buffs.

Aimee Grant Cumberbatch

I’ve got a real family connection to this place – it was owned by a Cumberbatch in the 1800s (Benedict Cumberbatch’s great-great-great grandfather to be exact) and my great uncle works there on Sundays. So if you want to see the birds of paradise being fed, that’s the time to go. Part of the site has been converted into a rum distillery, so those wishing to learn more about the Caribbean spirit should visit when it’s operational. Visitors can sample the different varieties in the gift shop, where you can buy a bottle of your preferred age and have it hand-engraved with a message of your choice.

Inside, the house has been restored to its former colonial grandeur and tours touch on the history of the plantation and its owners. Once your visit has ended, don’t forget to take in the view of the coast from Cherry Tree Hill on your drive back.

Or try: Barbados National Trust Open Houses – the organisation holds monthly events where historical houses are open to the public.

East Coast

Aimee Grant Cumberbatch

While the West Coast is the picture of paradise, The East Coast is Barbados’ Mr Hyde side. Altogether wilder and more unpredictable, Atlantic breakers pound rock faces, leading to dramatic, rugged scenery. Big waves and a strong undercurrent mean this is the surfer’s coast and some stretches of water are off limits to swimmers entirely.

Bathsheba

Aimee Grant Cumberbatch

With some of the most arresting scenery on the island, Bathsheba is a must visit for those who enjoy a good view. The beach is strewn with what look like boulders, but what are actually remaining fragments of eroded promontories. Known as the Soup Bowl, the bay is a top surfing spot with competitions taking place annually, but swimming here is not recommended. Instead soak in the sun-warmed waters of one of the inshore rock pools.

West Coast

West Coast of Barbados
Aimee Grant Cumberbatch

This stretch of the island is lined with some of the most postcard-worthy beaches. As such there are few parts that are free from hotels. But don’t let that put you off; the beauty of Barbados is that despite its size you can always find a quiet swimming spot. And resorts can be helpful in pointing out the best beaches.

Don’t be discouraged by talk of private beaches either - no matter how exclusive the hotel. There’s actually no such thing in Barbados, all beaches are open to the public so there’s nothing to stop you sunning yourself in front of Sandy Lane (Barbados’s most exclusive hotel) alongside the likes of Elton John and Rihanna. Though we can’t guarantee you’ll actually be allowed inside the hotel itself.

Heywoods beach

Just outside the Port St Charles Resort, the stretch of water at Heywoods is sheltered by the marina on the right, meaning the water remains calm even when the winds pick up. Turtles can sometimes be spotted feeding around the rocks; if you are luckily enough to spot one do keep your distance and don’t try to touch it.

Batts Rock

Aimee Grant Cumberbatch

Batts Rock is a secluded bay which is popular among locals who come to swim after work. You can admire the view of the seafront villas on the coast to your right, and if you’re feeling intrepid, walk along to the left to take in somewhat eerie spectacle of the derelict Four Seasons hotel whose construction was halted due to a lack of funds in 2009.

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