L'Hotel, Paris - review

Julia Leonard checks into L'Hotel for a decadent weekend in Paris
Terrace with a view
Julia Leonard24 March 2016

Paris was once our get-away weekend of choice. Hop on the Eurostar on a Friday afternoon and we were sipping red wine in no time. All this was pre-child and now a few days away are as rare a good night’s sleep. But with our daughter safely stowed on a school trip we’re off for a cheeky child-free mini-break. No need for macaron bribes in exchange for one more room at the Louvre…no dreaded trip to EuroDisney. It’s hard to contain our glee as the doors close and we leave St. Pancras.

To celebrate, we’re staying at L’Hotel on the Left Bank in oh-so-swanky Saint Germain-des-Prés. The Louvre is just across the river, Musee d’Orsay a short walk away, and Laduree is around the corner in case we’re feeling nostalgic. L’Hotel, tucked into a quiet side street near the Beaux Arts and with only 20 rooms, is Paris’ smallest 5-star hotel. What it lacks in size, it makes up in style – think velvet swags of drapery, damask wall coverings, hand-painted, faux-marble columns and a majestic central spiral staircase that shoots up the entire six floors. Minimalist modern décor this is not.

Dating back to 1828, L’Hotel wears its history with pride. We’re staying in the Apartment – a grand top floor suite with a terrace that boasts views of the Bell Tower of Saint Germain-des-Prés. We’re spoiled with 2 flat screen TVs, a luxurious sitting room, and a marble clad bathroom kitted out with dreamy Green & Spring bath products. A rather dour portrait of Louis-Antoine, Cardinal of Noailles hangs over our bed but he does nothing to dampen our spirits.

Spoiling: Apartment suite at L'Hotel

The other rooms boast names like Small Mignon (on the small size as you might guess) and Grand (a much larger Junior Suite) and for the literati, the Oscar Wilde Suite. Named for the hotel’s most famous guest, it features a terrace and writing desk so if the muse strikes you’re ready. All the rooms mix period details with all the mod cons for the best of both worlds.

Our concierges – the smiling and always helpful Guillaume and Louis – gladly handle any request. They sort tickets for museums including the new Foundation Louis Vuitton so no nasty queuing and suggest a trip to the often overlooked but charming Delacroix Museum, located in the artist’s home, only a stone’s throw away. We dine out but see a happy-looking crowd in the cosy Le Bar and the one Michelin star Le Restaurant (are you noticing a pattern?).

Sumptuous: Le Bar

But perhaps the greatest treasure is subterranean. L’Hotel has its own Hamman and pool nestled in the vaulted recesses below ground. Book a one-hour slot (it’s complimentary for hotel guests) and steam until pink then slip into the pool to cool down. Repeat until suitably de-stressed. Additional spa treatments are available for the truly indulgent.

Hammam Pool at L'Hotel

Downsides? There aren’t many. The public spaces, especially the hallways outside the rooms, could use a touch of paint and new carpet. And the coffee at breakfast is decidedly anaemic. But these are quibbles in what was an all together relaxed and luxurious break in a brilliant location. Stay there and you’ll join an illustrious list of past patrons including Marlon Brando, Jorge Luis Borges and of course Oscar Wilde who lived (and died) there. He’s reputed to have said something along the lines of, “I am dying beyond my means.” I can’t think of a better way to go.

DETAILS

L’Hotel, 13 Rue Des Beaux-Arts, Paris, 75006; l-hotel.com

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