Phoenicia, Catskill Mountains: why you should head to upstate New York for a hipster weekend break

Kate Lough gives you the lowdown on the 'Williamsburg of the Catskills' with its farm to table restaurants, boutique hotels and Instagrammable outdoor pursuits
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Kate Lough26 August 2016

Brooklynites have been in the know about the Catskills as a weekend break destinations for a couple of years now, but it’s still relatively under the radar for Londoners. So next time you book a city break to the Big Apple, consider tacking on a jaunt to this playground for creatives in upstate New York – where you can fill your lungs with fresh mountain air, eat great food and bed down in design-conscious boutique hotels.

The lowdown:

About 120 miles north of NYC, along the Route 28 you’ll come across the photogenic hamlet of Phoenicia, so hipster it’s been dubbed the Williamsburg of the Catskills.

Essentially it’s a summer camp for grown-ups with Instagrammable outdoor pursuits on tap. It’s a place to fill your lungs with fresh mountain air, eat great food and bed down in design-conscious boutique hotels and vacation cabins. Come at the right time and you’ll find live music, festivals and alfresco concerts.

What is there to do:

Phoenicia is catnip for outdoorsy urbanites living the country dream Friday to Monday. It sits in the gateway to the Catskills Forest Reserve and there are hikes a plenty through the lush landscape. Try the Overlook Mountain hike for summit views and exploring nearby Woodstock and Kaaterskill Falls and Sunset Rock are also well worth a look.

Kaaterskill Falls
greatnortherncatskills.com

As well as biking, kayaking and fishing, a must in the warmer months is tubing down the Esopus Creek rapids. But be warned, it’s a high-adrenaline experience that’s closer to white water rafting.

In winter, Phoenicia is a good stop off before a spot of skiing or snowboarding at nearby Hunter Mountain and Bellayre Ski Centre.

Where to stay:

It has to be The Graham & Co. Started by four Brooklynites, this 20-room boutique hotel nails cabin-luxe with mounted antlers, animal rugs, woollen blankets and canvas butterfly chairs. Its three acres of ground include a spring-fed pool to cool off in, hammocks to lounge around in and a fire pit to live out those All-American campfire dreams. The hotels also has bike to borrow for exploring and puts on alfresco cinema screenings.

The spring-fed pool at The Graham & Co

If you want a bit more privacy, more ex-Brooklynites Jeff and Brooke Bailey opened The Glass Mountain Inn in spring 2014. Its cosy cabins have views out across the creek and are filled with thoughtfully selected books, art and records. After you’ve exhausted yourself hiking, you can order in snacks and meals from local farmers.

Where to eat and drink:

The Phoenicia Diner is a must. Fixed out in a retro design, this is no ordinary diner with simple shakes and fries. Expect all-day breakfast featuring locally smoked trout, house-cured corned beef hash and spot-on Bloody Marys.

Local hotspot: The Phoenicia Diner
Kevin Trageser

Next on the agenda should be Sweet Sue’s, an iconic breakfast spot which just reopened, for giant proper American pancakes.

Tavern 214 is a farm-to-table gastropub that should also be on your radar. It’s a restored 1920s colonial tavern where you can sit on the verandah in summer or cosy up by the fire in winter, while you sup on craft beers, cocktails and a seasonal menu, featuring dishes like Hudson Valley smoked duck quesadillas and local rainbow trout tacos.

When to visit:

The summer is an obvious time to escape the oppressive heat of NYC, but autumn is particularly lovely – the days are still warm, the nights are cooler and campfire-friendly and the scenery is at its best.

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You should come here if:

You’re heading to NYC and you want to mix up your city break with a taste of the outdoor life – it’s only a 2 and a half hour drive.

How to get there:

You can take a train from New York’s Penn Station or hire a car for an easy drive.

Follow Kate on Twitter @kate_lough and Instagram @kateloughtravel

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