The Colombian Andes in 10 days: from horse riding to coffee tasting

Annie Ross takes you on an adventure across the Colombian Andes between Medellin and Cali
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Annie Ross4 October 2016

Bang in the middle of Colombia you find a region so diverse in climate and landscape that it is no wonder that the Andean region is loved by national and international tourists alike.

In a ten-day trip between Medellin and Cali, I found myself up mountains, in deserts, rainforests, coffee plantations and amongst 900BC ruins.

The only constant was the friendliness of the people I met along the way. Here's how I made my way across the Colombian Andes in 10 days.

Saltento: for trekking

My first stop was the mountain town of Salento, a hub for hiking. Start by taking a Willys Jeep up into Valle de Cocora, notorious for its strikingly tall wax palm trees. From there, an hour’s walk, crossing seven rope bridges and getting a feel for the forest trails, you find yourself at Casa Colibrí, the house of the humming birds.

Willys Jeeps
Annie Ross/Exerk

For full trekking immersion, head into the Nevados National Park with Salento Trekking on a multi-day trek to one of the summits - some snow-capped, others not. Enjoy the high altitude valley views, sightings of toucans, condors and hummingbirds and learn about the flora native to each of the seven ecosystems in the area.

Wax palm trees in Valle de Cocora

Accommodation during the hikes is at local family fincas with pigs, chickens, sheep, dogs, cats, turkeys, cows and horses all in close proximity.

In Salento town, Luciérnaga Hostel offers excellent private and dorm room accommodation, and just down the hill, for those looking for more peace and quiet, the traditional Rancho de Salento is the place to rest your head.

Rancho de Salento 
Annie Ross/Exerk

Buenavista: for coffee tours

A couple of local buses later and I found myself in a village aptly named Buenavista (‘good view’). There I toured the coffee plantation, sorting house, laboratory and onsite café of San Alberto, a super premium coffee plantation.

Coffee tasting 
Annie Ross/Exerk

The in-depth tour at San Alberto is one of the highest quality in the Coffee Region, lasting 2.5 hours, complete with sensory tasting in the laboratory. Neighbouring Cafecultur also host an informative coffee tour for those on a slimmer budget.

While in Armenia, the hub for Salento and Buenavista, I made the short trip to the pretty hilltop town of Filandia, a smaller, less crowded version of Salento and well worth a day trip.

Desierto de Tatacoa: for star gazing, walking and biking

After the mountains and coffee region, I travelled south to the second largest desert in Colombia, Desierto de Tatacoa. Reached by colectivo (shared jeep transport) via Neiva, the tiny town is alongside the two main attractions; the observatory and the labyrinth.

Biking in Tatacoa Desert
Annie Ross/Exerk

A wonderful nightly star gazing talk is hosted at 7pm and a couple of hours in the red sand canyon labyrinth was my highlight. Setting off at 6am, I walked the labyrinth (guide is optional), before renting a mountain bike to explore the sights further a field. A guided motorbike ride can also be organized upon arrival if you’d rather not cycle in the desert.

There is accommodation for all budgets and tastes. Starting with the most basic, you have hammocks and rooms at Sol de Verano Doña Lilia, conveniently close to the observatory, a step up, El Peñon de Constantino has a natural spring pool and traditional cabins. The Bioluxury hotel, Bethel, takes you upscale with creative desert architecture.

Bethel Bioluxury hotel 
Annie Ross/Exerk

San Agustin: for horse riding and statue exploring

San Agustin town sits in fertile volcanic land and is renowned for its thousands of 1st-8th century megalithic statues. Relatively little is known about the statues but a wander around its UNESCO Archaeological Park is a must.

A horse ride trip to visit the other sights gives you a flavour of the age and cultural significance of the tomb statues.

Be humbled by the Estrecho del Rio Magdalena, a spot 30 minute drive from San Agustin town where Colombia’s longest river gets squeezed through a 2m wide rock formation. Stay on the outskirts of San Agustin town to enjoy the serenity of the mountain – Casa de Francois was my chosen spot.

Horse riding in San Agustin
Annie Ross/Exerk

This 10 day trip can be (and was) done on a shoestring staying in hammocks and dorm rooms and taking local buses. There are also excellent hotel and private car offerings if desired. Pure! Colombia provides expert travel advice on the region should you require help in organising your trip.

For more on travelling and working in Colombia, head to Annie’s blog at exerk.com and follow her on Instagram @exerkyourself

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