What to do in Christchurch following its 'redesign'

Slowly but surely, New Zealand’s second city is being transformed after the 2011 quake, says Emma Thomson
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Emma Thomson12 March 2018

Seven years ago a massive earthquake shook Christchurch, the largest city on New Zealand’s South Island, liquefying its streets and claiming 185 lives. Instead of only repairing the damage, the bold decision was made to redesign the place, transforming it from a quaint “English garden city” to an epicentre of arts and innovation.

There has never been a more exciting time to visit. New restaurants and cafés are mushrooming, and locals are leading the charge with grassroots initiatives such as Greening the Rubble — bringing art and life to areas still awaiting attention. To find these and other areas undergoing transformation, follow the Twitter hashtag #pocketsofawesome.

What can you expect? Some of the world’s best street art, a thrilling revival of Maori food and pop-up fashion shops housed inside shipping containers. It’s time to say “kia ora” to the new Christchurch.

Sleep with Distinction

Be one of the first to stay at the new 4.5-star Distinction Hotel in the centre of the city. Formerly the Millennium, this gleaming-white molar of a building has just reopened after a top-to-toe renovation. It’s aimed at businesspeople but there’s nothing austere about the elegant use of velvets in the Gumption bar and restaurant.

Even the most basic rooms are trussed up with sumptuous linens and come with all the trimmings such as bathrobes, radio with Bluetooth speaker and free, fast wi-fi. Upgrade to a superior suite which looks out over Christchurch Cathedral. Doubles from NZ$224 (£117), room only.

Pop-up food

Locals are flocking to Little High Eatery, a buzzing covered marketplace housing eight family-run restaurants, ranging from Thai to tapas. The pick of the bunch? Eight Grains, for freshly made dumplings, and Bacon Brothers, whose mammoth NZ$10 (£5) vegan burger comes with a free hug.

Next door is Madam Woo, serving Malaysian street food in hip surroundings. It’s the brainchild of celebrity chef and Gordon Ramsay protégé Josh Emett. Be sure to order the pulled sticky pork hawker rolls for NZ$14 (£7).

At the end of Cashel Street was, until recently, the Re:START mall however it is shortly turn into a thriving farmers’ market so watch this space...

Travellers in search of a health fix should make a beeline for Kakano Café on the corner of Manchester and Cashel Street. Owned by rising Maori chef Jade Temepara, the daily-changing menu uses only local organic and foraged ingredients and celebrates traditional kai (food) such as muttonbird stew and hummus with horopito (a native herb). The foraged nettle tea is a must-sip.

In need of something sweet? Rollickin’ Gelato has developed a cult status, evolving from a post-quake cart to a café doling out organic sorbets and gelatos with classics such as peanut butter and jelly and Pop’s Lemon Pie. They excel at seasonal flavours, however — and, best of all, you can have as many free taste tests as you like.

As the light fades, seek out Smash Palace, a converted bus surrounded by picnic tables and chairs. A hub after the earthquake, this family-owned bar remains a focal point of the community. They’re proud as punch of their NZ$15 (£7.50) burgers with buns, chutney, patties, pickle and aioli all made from scratch and served with local beers and wines.

If you’re after fancier fare, book a seat at Inati. Here you’ll dine around the chef’s table on a selection of seasonal “small plates” such as salt-roasted baby beets with hazelnuts and cheese meringue or crispy chicken cereal. Prices range from a bargain NZ$20 (£10.50) for a three-plate lunch, to NZ$149 (£78) per person for an eight-plate affair with wine.

Nightlife has been non-existent in the city centre since the quake but now Oxford Terrace is repopulating with bars. Among them is legendary jazz club Fat Eddies. With live acts every night of the week, you can boogie until the wee hours.

Retro shopping

Fashionistas with a full credit card will find high-end brands at the brand new The Crossing mall on Cashel Street.

On weekends the place to be seen is undoubtedly Riccarton Sunday Market in Riccarton Park (9am–2pm), where tote-carrying locals browse for retro furniture and food. For souvenirs, taxi out to boutique shopping mall The Tannery in the suburb of Woolston and seek out Hapa (daily 10am–5pm) selling the works of local artists, designers and jewellers.

Art out of ruin

Don’t miss the relocated Quake City, which charts the aftermath of the September 4, 2010, and February 22, 2011, earthquakes. Particularly haunting are the severed spire of Christchurch Cathedral and the stopped clocks from the former railway station.

After that, trundle around town aboard the quaint 50-minute Tram City Tour (tickets NS$25/£13), or try your hand at punting on the River Avon (NZ$28/£15). Lastly, enjoy a free art tour. Christchurch is officially a World Street Art Capital and there’s been an explosion of new murals beautifying walls exposed during the quake.

Details: Christchurch

It’s easiest to fly via Auckland. Air New Zealand flies there from £888 return. Discover the World has three nights in Christchurch from £239pp, comprising B&B accommodation and a city tour. christchurchnz.com

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