Fashion world hails a new star as McQueen protégée goes solo

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10 April 2012

She faced the toughest test in fashion — following the widely acclaimed "genius" Alexander McQueen.

But Sarah Burton, who took over as creative director after the designer's suicide, passed with flying colours, winning unanimous praise from the world's fashion press for her first solo catwalk show in Paris last night.

It was the label's first show since McQueen's death in February. Burton, 35, who had been head of womenswear design, took on the creative director's mantle in May.

Vogue's UK editor Alexandra Shulman led the praise for Burton, who McQueen hired when she graduated from Central Saint Martins in 1997. "There were exquisite clothes accompanied by a sense of optimism," said Shulman. "It was great to see that Sarah had stamped her own feelings on this collection."

Paula Reed, style director at Grazia magazine, said McQueen "would have been proud of the tenderness and respect with which this team has taken his design signatures and gently moved them on to another plain".

Burton, who rarely gives interviews, said: "I've had amazing support from an amazing team." The LA Times's Booth Moore said: "[The collection] didn't have the tortured genius of the namesake designer, but the clothes may have been better for it."

Christina Binkley from the Wall Street Journal, wrote: "Faced with carrying on with what is arguably the most celebrated show of Paris fashion week she came through with splendour (and excellent tailoring)."

Cathy Horyn of the New York Times said: "Some references to the McQueen craft and drama are necessary, but her choices reflected a gradual transition. And she obviously knows how to make light clothes.

"Over the next few seasons, she should feel more confident to bring out her own ideas... All in all, she did an excellent job, and I thought the response in the room was enthusiastic."

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